Mr Smith visits Geranium in Copenhagen for lunch and had 20 different dishes

Re-blog from a meal in March 2013, but well worth bringing to the fore

As you will know from previous posts I love Copenhagen for seeing both friends and eating amazing food  In March 2013 I was there for both and had already had a great meal at Kokkeriet.  The very next day I was booked for lunch at Geranium, which is in the San Pellegrino Top 50 in the world so I headed there with high hopes of an amazing lunch.  This is the story of the lunch…

So after all of the food the night before it was a light breakfast and a long walk, part of which was to be to the restaurant.  I had it timed nicely and headed off in the direction of FC Copenhagen football ground.  Why was I heading there?  Well, the restaurant is in the stadium.  Not quite what you would imagine though, it is in the stadium building and as this was not a match day it was nice and quiet around the area, but when inside the restaurant you would never know you were in a football ground.  One big advantage of this is that it does give a great view.

I arrived bang on time and headed to the lift on the ground floor, went up to the restaurant to find a very large, light open space.  The light was very good and I knew that I would, for once, be able to get some good natural light shots.

I was lead through the restaurant to my table and even better was that it was near the window.  The tables were huge and I had a great view in to the kitchen, perfect seat.  I settled back and waited for the start of what was going to be 20 different dishes! Oh, and the wine to go with it.  As you will see all of the dishes are nice and small so although 20 sounds a lot it is very manageable.  The precision of all of the food and service was incredible.

Given how many dishes there were I will try and step through them individually:

  • Branches of Sea Salted Cheese – We kicked off with a cheese straw, but a different style to one I had the night before
  • Carrot & Seabuckthorn – The pacing of the food was incredible throughout the meal, nothing rushed at all but well timed and you were never left sitting waiting and the next dish arrived just when you were ready for it
  • Celeriac & Seaweed Salt
  • Dried Flowers & Apple – This was a really intriguing little dish with the Dried Flowers & Apple inside that little pouch
  • Ceps – The picture here (or the description on the menu) does not show the full glory of the dish called Ceps.   A very understated name for a little shot of intense mushroom soup that also had a perfect little quails egg inside
  • Ramps – Look at this carefully, this is in fact a tiny baked potato.  You can just see it in the dish and you might think that it was burnt to a cinder.  Yes it had been cooked for a very long time, but that worked amazingly.  No burnt taste at all and amazing how it could be done
  • Jellied Ham & Celery Water – By this point I was being blown away by some of the flavours and visual impact of the food, and then this dish arrived.  Pretty as a picture and packing a great flavour
  • Dillstone & Fermented Vegetables.  This had to have 2 pictures to show the dill in more detail
  • “Razor Clams” – I think this was the dish that surprised me the most.  Yes it looked like a razor clam and when I was told by the waiter to eat the whole thing I was a little surprised, but it was not a razor clam shell.  How they made something look like one was beyond me,  but I did as I was told, ate it and loved it
  • Heather Smoked Turbot & M – When I say smoked I mean they lit it at the table briefly to get the essence of the smoke
  • Bread – need I say more?
  • Onions with Melted Hay Cheese – This was delicious,
  • Iron & Minerals – all very good for you 🙂
  • Raw Lamb Sausage with Seaweed and Horseradish – I am not sure I know which would be my favourite dish but this was certainly one of them
  • Jerusalem Artichoke Tree
  • Pickled Pine & Brown Butter
  • Elderflower Soda served in the kitchen.  Due to the perfect timing of the food each table was led in to the kitchen separately,  a great chance to see the chefs at work
  • Rustne Som
  • Frozen Herb Tea and White Chocolate
  • ‘Naked Trees’ Dark Beer and Prunes – This was the dish that I know would challenge me.  I am not a beer drinker and not keen on prunes, so this was possibly my least favourite dish, but then again it did all get eaten 🙂
  • And finally! Green Eggs!
That brought to an end quite possibly one of the best meals I have ever had.  I can only think of one other meal that could match it and that was in Copenhagen as well, more about that in another post

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